I have spent both days this weekend at Limekilns. On saturday I went there with Joanna Lisowiec, Mark Olsthroon and Lizzie Jenkins. I began by belaying Joanna on One Ringer (HS 4a) and then lead Through the Motions (E3 6a). This felt like the hardest onsight lead I have done!
Next Joanna did Red Flag (HS 4b), which I seconded. Mark managed to lead Grasp the Nettle (E2 5b) and Through the Motions.
Next I decided it was time to have a go at The Ivy League again. The bottom section up to the large foot ledge felt ok and I was soon at my psychological crux. Here I managed to place a few decent bits of gear and contemplated the next move. Once I was happy with the whole situation I got a high foot, rocked over and reached for the good break. The move went suprisingly easily so Im not sure why I was finding it so hard before. I then topped out without oo much drama and finally had my first E4 in the bag!
I was back again on sunday where I soloed Grasp the Nettle, Elgins Crack (E2 5c), Protectless (E1 5a), Wall Straight (E1 5a) and Slots (E1 5c). I also tried the full block traverse again but the East side felt quite greasy so I couldn't stick the finishing holds.