Monday 25 March 2013

Not so fast and not so furious

I went to Newtyle Quarry yesterday with Dom Scott, Andy Laing and Anne Peale. Its the first time I've been since my injury so I was interested to see how my elbow fared.
Photo Credit: Dom Scott
I started with a warm up on fast and furious (M10). I managed to remember all the moves but I climbed it in a very non-flowing manner. Despite this all the moves seemed pretty easy and well within me today. After a rest and watching Andy, Dom and Anne all have a go I got back on and, after climbing fast and furious, tried to do the link up into Too Fast Too Furious (M11+). Too fast is over twice the length of fast and furious and although the technical crux is probably over by the time you've done f+f you are very pumped.
Photo Credit: Dom Scott
Photo Credit: Dom Scott
I managed to climb TFTF to the end of the ramp and managed to latch the hook on the wall after this but I left my axe behind while swinging off and had to take on the rope to reach it. I forgot were the hooks were for this section, but now after looking though some old pictures of me trying it I remember again. I then climbed the next section to just below the last quick draw.  From here the territory is new to me and I took a while trying to look for hooks. Once finding them I climbed to the chains but in my attempt to clip I fell off, leaving on axe behind and knocking the other out of my teeth, which hurt a bit.
I was quite pleased with my attempt on TFTF today, despite not actually managing to clip the chains. I think now that I know the moves and abit of work on tooling fitness I should be able to get it.
Photo Credit: Dom Scott
After getting my axe back Anne and I went down to the Happy Hooker wall, to climb Happy Hooker (M7), leaving Andy and Dom to work F+F. Thanks to Ross Cowie for the rope, quickdraws and beta. I managed to climb it on my first attempt.
Photo Credit: Dom Scott
After this we returned to the tube. Anne and I both had another go on F+F. I managed to almost climb F+F again but my axe ripped from the last hold. You can actually clip the chains from this hold so can I just count that as a victory wipper?
Photo Credit: Dom Scott
Hopefully I will be able to tick TFTF soon, all be it after a bit of training. Im hurting a bit today. My elbow feels fine, although it was complaining a bit yesterday, but my teeth hurt from the fall off TFTF and I just ache in general all over.
Photo Credit: Dom Scott

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